add the savor of salt and the bite of pepper
91. The Domestic Science of Sunday Dinner
by Lorna Goodison
A Friend to Malika Booker
In this episode of The Poetry Exchange, we talk with one of poetry's greatest leading lights, Malika Booker, about the poem that has been a friend to her: ‘The Domestic Science of Sunday Dinner’ by Lorna Goodison.
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Malika Booker, currently based in Leeds, is a lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University, a British poet of Guyanese and Grenadian Parentage, and co-founder of Malika’s Poetry Kitchen (A writer’s collective). Her pamphlet Breadfruit, (flippedeye, 2007) received a Poetry Society recommendation and her poetry collection Pepper Seed (Peepal Tree Press, 2013) was shortlisted for the OCM Bocas prize and the Seamus Heaney Centre 2014 prize for first full collection. She is published with the Poets Sharon Olds and Warsan Shire in The Penguin Modern Poet Series 3: Your Family: Your Body (2017). A Cave Canem Fellow, and inaugural Poet in Residence at The Royal Shakespeare Company, Malika was awarded the Cholmondeley Award (2019) for outstanding contribution to poetry and elected a Royal Society of Literature Fellow (2022).
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Malika has won the Forward Prize for Best Single Poem TWICE: in 2020 for 'The Little Miracles' (Magma, 2019), and most recently in 2023 for 'Libation', which you can hear her read in this episode.
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'Libation' was first published in The Poetry Review (112:4).
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‘The Domestic Science of Sunday Dinner’ by Lorna Goodison is published in Turn Thanks by Lorna Goodison, University of Illinois Press, 1999.
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This episode closes with a reading of the poem 'Su Casa' by Andrea Witzke Slot, published in her collection 'The Ministry of Flowers' (Valley Press, 2020).
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Speaking of publications, don’t forget you can pre-order your copy of Poems as Friends – The Poetry Exchange 10th Anniversary Anthology – which is published by Quercus Editions on 9th May 2024.
The Domestic Science of Sunday Dinner
by Lorna Goodison
There is the soaking of peas; the red kidney beans
dried out for hard life, which need to be revived
through the water process, overnight osmosis.
There is the seasoning of the meat
always with garlic which you scrape
with the serrated edge of an okapi knife.
Mince these cloves of pungent flavour
then slice the circular onions, weeping
add the savor of salt and the bite of pepper,
add pimento kernels if you want and judicious
cut confetti of hot country pepper,
rub all this in with clean bare hands.
Your efforts will return to you
as aromas of contentment, harbingers of feasting
and well-being on Sunday afternoon.
I learnt how to prepare Sunday dinners
the August when my father was found to be housing
aggressive cells of destruction within him,
cells which were even massing for the final
battle against his system, which they would win
in the closing days of advent season.
“put the peas on after breakfast,” My mother said,
turning her domain, the kitchen, over to me
so that she could become his nurse at the end.
Their cooking requires close careful attention,
no long water will do, just enough to cover
and cook them till they sink to the bottom.
Then add enough water to buoy them again.
It’s a game, this cooking of the peas.
Sometimes you allow them to cook down.
until they almost burn, it is that cooked-down
near-burned state which produces that taste
of redeemed and rescued richness.
Repeat this boiling process over and over
until the hard red legumes soften
some of them will break open early
provided you do not cook them with salt.
The salt you add later when all the peas have softened,
flavour them again with pressed garlic pearls
Add the stripped length of stalks of escallion
pounded to release the onion brother juices.
Now toss a fragrant bouquet of thyme
into the swirling red waters of the pot,
which is even now awaiting the wash,
the white tide of coconut milk.
This part of the Sunday dinner ceremony
in times earlier was conducted by my father,
who would be summoned to the kitchen
and handed the instruments for performing
this ritual. A hammer, a knife, an ice pick,
a dry coconut bristling with fibrous hairs,
a male coconut in need of a shave
whose one eye you pierced with the ice pick’s tip
to release a cloudy white fluid.
My father pauses to pour the water
into a long–stemmed wine glass
and lifts it like a chalice to my mother’s lips.
then he turns from the tender holy
and gallant gesture and splits open
the head of the coconut with the hammer.
The shell of the coconut cracks loudly
and opens to reveal that inside its thick skull
it is cradling a lining of firm white meat.
My father uses the blade of the knife
to separate the flesh from the shell,
and then he symbolically dips
a jagged piece of coconut into sugar
and chews upon it. This signals
the ending of this high domestic ceremony.
The coconut flesh is gathered up
and grated and squeezed through a strainer.
The thick milk is tempered with water.
You pour that then like a libation
upon the seasoned red bubbling water
which is now ready to receive the rice,
clean sifted, picked and washed
of all foreign bodies and impurities
like small pebbles and chaff
which reminds us that all this is the produce,
the bounty of the earth into which
my father is preparing to return.
They come together, this integration
of rice and peas steamed in coconut milk,
mixed together and left to settle down
into a combined state of readiness.
all the time the meat has been roasting,
issuing from it’s side bloody gravy juices.
Now they will be serving her bland
hospital food, spices, meat, mashed potatoes
accompanied by pastel vegetables
This pale repast will be attended
by a nervous mound of red gelatin
and an eye cup of anaemic ice-cream.
They will encourage her to eat this
and to be thankful upon this Sunday
that at eighty-five she still lives.
For some days she can only feed
upon an essential mixture, an imitation
plasma of salt sugar and water
dripping into her veins through a long
winding serpentine tube.
Over and over I watch for signs
that hearts are softening
that hard things are breaking open
that in the end it will all come together
like the Sunday dinner rice and peas
as I pray for your soul’s safety mother,
as I pray for your blessed release.
From Turn Thanks by Lorna Goodison, University of Illinois Press, 1999.